The year 2015 has come and gone and what better way to kick off the New Year than LCM? (That’s London Collections Men.) LCM was slated from the eighth through the eleventh with a particularly exciting showing during the latter half; impressive designers among the likes of J.W. Anderson, Alexander McQueen, and last but certainly not least, the iconic, longstanding house of Burberry all showed their latest menswear collections.
It’s no secret that during a period of slowdown for some major players (yes, even Prada and Burberry are no longer immune to today’s incessant desire for novelty), menswear has absolutely thrived with seemingly no signs of letting up. While the exact cause for this rapid growth is debatable, we at TMS like to think designers such as the aforementioned are all playing a major part in continuing the progressiveness of menswear as we know it.
J.W. Anderson launched his eponymous label in 2008 with a menswear focus, only later adding a women’s line in 2010. He prides himself on his ability to intertwine what is traditionally considered menswear and womenswear, blurring the lines between the two as has become increasingly popular with modern designers. While on a whole there was something of a cartoon-esque feel to the collection, there were actually quite a few wearable pieces: the white ribbed sweater, the longer than average beige trench coat, the standard white collared cotton button-down placed strategically underneath oversized, gnarled looking cardigans, all sported with boxer-style shoes. It’s as if grunge met sport and took a turn in to a world of fantasy only JW Anderson and his trusted stylist Benjamin Bruno know. I’m not sure we’ll be seeing too many men wearing a pastel pink floral cropped jacket over an otherwise bare torso next Fall/Winter, but it’s nice to see Anderson staying true to his gender-fluid initiative.
McQueen has been something of the talk of the town; punk-reminiscent facial accessories such as oversized safety pins protruding from cheek to mouth were accompanied by a dangling chain to the ear for good measure. Whereas Riccardo Tisci’s Fall ‘15 display of facial jewelry was ornate and almost delicate looking, Sarah Burton’s McQueen man was a walking embodiment of savage beauty, moth clad and all. The collection has a strong sense of traditional masculinity, with pieces such as slim, pin-stripe trousers paired with structured jackets and longer black overcoats taking the forefront.
Burberry’s story and concept seemed all-encompassing, yet outerwear stood out as the clear focus of the collection. From wool coats with toggle buttons to shearling lined parkas featuring fur hoods, there was no shortage of layering. Unzipped olive bomber jackets were paired with suede loafers and zipped track tops to deliver a sense of nonchalant ease. Black low top sneakers with hints of red and yellow were paired with every thing from a trouser and suit jacket combo to the classic beige Burberry trench to further inject a dose of casualness throughout the looks.